Description
Some of the most intriguing Astrophytums cultivars are the result of multi-hybrid programs and possess unique and attractive characteristics.
Particularly the Astrophytum asterias “Superkabuto” has been extensively hybridized in Japan and in other countries whit other species of the genus. That is why hybrid seeds are easy to obtain as most of the species are easy to cross, and their seeds have a high germination capacity that lasts for 2 years. Many generations of hybrids were created inside the “Superkabuto” form, features of natural species mixed, and interesting hybrids and selective cultivars appeared
Multi hybrids generally display an exclusive combination of distinctive traits derived from a line of complex breeding which incorporates many different species and or hybrids. So rather than taking after one parent or another, it can resembles many of the plants in which it was bred from.
Seedlings ofAstrophytumrophytum superkabuto show frequently non-typical colouring and start getting red or yellow spots on the stem, or developing crested, monstrous or other abnormal forms that yet have to be named.
Origin and Habitat
Garden origin (Nursery produced cultivar)
Cultivation and Propagation
The hybrids of Astrophytum are relatively easy plants thought slow to grow. They are sometime seen as a grafted plants but grow very well on their own roots too and make great potted specimens.
Soil: They grow well in a rich, well drained soil such us pumice, lava grit, and only a little peat or leaf-mould.
Repotting: If potted, repot them preferably in the spring, if their roots become cramped. Generally, they should be repotted every other year in order to provide fresh soil. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean they’ll need larger containers. Fill about a quarter of the pot with broken crocks, gravel, etc. to promote good drainage. After repotting, do not water for a week or more. Use pot with good drainage. Eventually, as the plant becomes mature grow it slowly, and adopt a new repotting period, using intervals of every 2 - 3 years. Additionally grow it under drier conditions or with stronger sunlight.
Watering: Water sparingly from March until October so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water (It rots easily, especially if over wet), and also needs to be avoided wetting the body of this plant while it is in sunlight. A wet cactus in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death.. Let dry between watering. During hot weather you may need to water the plants more frequently so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by October you should be back in to the winter watering regime. If the soil is allowed to be dry for too long root loss could follow but equally the same result would occur if the plants are both wet and cold. From March onward the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth
Fertilization: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer. Feeding may not be necessary at all if the compost is fresh then, feed in summer only if the plant hasn’t been repotted recently. Do not feed the plants from September onward as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.
Hardiness: When dormant, the plant is slightly cold tolerant (down to nearly -5° C or less), but when left out it is more sensitive to frost. However warmth throughout the year will increase the grower’s success (at minimum temperatures from 5 to 15 centigrade degrees during rest season). During the summer it is best to keep the plants outside where the temperature can rise to over 30 C with no harm to the plant. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity!!
Exposure: They do need a lot of light to develop their typical compact shape, but different clones vary in their tolerance of full sunshine. However some protection in light shade is recommended during the hottest hours in summer. They can tolerate moderate shade, and a plant that has been growing in shade should be slowly hardened off before placing it in full sun as the plant will be severely scorched if moved too suddenly from shade into sun. If kept too dark they may become overly lush and greener and could be prone to rotting due to over watering.
Uses: They are excellent plants for container growing. It always looks good and stays small.
Diseases and pests: Watch for infestations of mealybugs, scale insects and spider mite. Rot is only a minor problem with cacti if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much.
Propagation: Almost exclusively by seed. Plants are sometimes grafted onto column-shaped cacti. Seed Collecting: Permit fruit to ripen. Fruit must be significantly overripe before harvesting seed; clean and dry seeds.
Notes
We must however remember that all the Super Kabuto are the result of cross-pollinating of the fist plant (That was a mutant of A. asterias found in the wild) with other normal Astrophytum asterias and Astrophytum capricorne (and possible other Astrophytum species too), it can be concluded that all the SK actually available are the result of intraspecific hybridization and SK contains not only Astrophytum asterias genes but also a significant number of Astrophytum capricorne genes, and maybe others. As a result spiny clones appear rather often and the name Astrophytum asterias cv. Super Kabuto is not quite correct.
Gallery
